FN Summit: Stuart Weitzman

I just want to start with Stuart Weitzman by mentioning that my first heels were Stuart Weitzman, My Prom shoes were Stuart Weitzman (I wore the same pair twice) and I generally love Stuart Weitzman. He has been in business for 25 years now, and is both a businessman and a designer. A perfect combination of right and left brains, which he states is “an advantage, not a challenge” and although “not necessary, it is an asset.” He believes that “the first hero every girl meets is a shoe,” and the best advice he can give to young designers is that they have to love the business and be passionate about what they do. He visits his factories, all 13 of which are located in Spain, frequently, and enjoys playing ping pong. And he didn’t even mean to be in the business.

My 15-year-old self and my 18-year-old feet at various proms

Stuart Weitzman has owned his business since 1986, but he has owned all his factories since 1976. He wasn’t going to go into the family production business, but when his father died, he helped run the factory, and loved it. He has been known to be at the trade shows in person, and stay until 10 or 11pm. And it’s been that way since he was 21, he’s hooked. Yet, he still refers to it as just a hobby.

His designs and shoes, some courtesy of younger designers (probably one of the reasons his shoes are still current) are some of the most popular, and he is always careful to think through the business side of a design. How will it be made? Will it sell? And one of his most important rules is that a shoe must be comfortable, because why not?

Two current faves- the Capsize and the Review

Stuart Weitzman has an international presence, but when he first started selling in other countries, he wasn’t even thinking about globalization, because the term hadn’t really been invented yet. Weitzman asked his brother, who lived in Spain, to put some of Stuarts’ shoes into his (brothers) store, and it grew from there. Weitzman credits his brother with teaching him that the U.S. wasn’t the only place to make shoes. He learned what the rest of the world could offer, and he was just trying to improve his brand image, not conquer the world. He does sell the most shoes in London, however, and sees Asia (and the internet) as the biggest places for potential growth, though he seems perplexed by the bought of online shoe shopping- “I just wonder, how can you buy a shoe that fits online?” Well, personally I just ballpark it, and probably waste a lot of money on shipping and returns.

Courtesy of Vogue

Weitzman recently launched his higher end line, SW1,which features more exotic skins and higher heels. Literally just launched a few days ago, so nothing to buy yet, just to dream about. Weitzman stresses that to make a good shoe and sell it, it has to work, it has to fit, and it has to repeat-able. SW1 still adheres to those principles, but with just a few more centimeters or a more cutting edge design. And he’s still going.

FN Summit: Kevin Plank, Under Armour

One of the first speakers at the Footwear News Summit today was Kevin Planl, Founder and CEO of Under Armour, who talked about the brands expansion into footwear seven years ago. Under Armour launched their footwear in 2006, 10 years after the brand first started with a simple solution to an Athletes Problem, not being comfortable when working out. They expanded from moisture-wicking T-Shirts to all apparel, then launched their footwear, with the mission to make everyone feel ike they could do more, they could be better, they could be whatever they wanted to be. But why launch footwear? Isn’t there enough already? Kevin acknowledged that they had to find a niche, they had to again solve a problem sand make something new. The consumer didn’t need anymore footwear choices, but Under Armour gave them something new. And something that has earned them around $200 million in just seven years.

Most of the designers for Under Armour’s Footwear were athletes, so they know how to design for athletes, and what their needs are. One product they launched was the Highlight Cleat, a cleat that eliminated the need for tape or spats, therefore saving time and money. This cleat is also 26% lighter from the usual 10-15 oz. of weight a football player might carry on his feet. Though these cleats are only for a small percentage of the population, Kevin stressed how it was important to build up their credibility and reputation before they expand any more. “Nothing happens overnight, but it’s coming, and it will be bigger and better next year”

Photo and video courtesy of Under Armour