As I have said before, I don’t do a lot of fashion-show-reviewing, but Couture time is my favorite time of the year, and I like to share it, so here we go. I only have a few favorites (or examples, in the case of Alexis Mabille), but to see more head on over to Style.com where al the photos are from anyways.
Versace is Versace, and while exciting, has never really been my style. There are pieces I love, but for the most part, I like my sequins and metallics a little more toned down (is that even possible? I think yes.) It was a Versace show, through and through, and the exorbitant amount of sequins and beading and embellishments that one usually sees at Couture week actually fits in at Versace. It doesn’t look too over the top, because it’s Versace, and isn’t Versace always a little over the top in some way?
Christophe Josse is getting stronger and stronger. His collection, a small one with a limited color palette, was nonetheless beautiful. Black separates, short and long dresses, with white, gray, and taupe pieces at the end made for a sophisticated and refined collection that was altogether simply lovely.
Photos via Vogue Italia
It breaks my heart to tell you that Alexis Mabille’s show was struggling, to say the least, because I was really pulling for him for a while. After last season’s distracting headpoofs and lack of focus in silhouette and style (but not color, he did use every color in the rainbow, which is a cool scheme) and the seasons before that inconsistency in, again, silhouettes and style, I’m just not so sure about Mabille anymore. Which is sad, but true.
I stubbled to find one piece I liked in his show, many were either too metallic/foil like (I’m not going for a mud wrap, thank you) too kimono-y, too cape-y, too sheer, too lace-and-velvety, too bow-y, had too many weird greek-like-curl-ouf-embellishments (I don’t want to look like one of the muses from Hercules, thank you), or too, did I get everything? I think I got it all. And let’s be clear, greek poufs and kimonos and lace and foil don’t really all go together.
I settles on the navy blue long sleeved sequin gown, because I do love my sequins, when done well. While this is a lot of sequins, it seems less like a sequined dress and more like a glorious, sparkling, midnight like gown. Though I don’t really want the bow. Or the hair.
Are we a present?
You know, I love couture. I love the glitz, the glm, the sequins and the beads. But I admire when a woman can do a couture show with smart, gorgeous separates, and not a beaded gown in sight. Bouchra Jarrar has done a magnificent job of taking couture and making it wearable, but just as lovely. Jarrar sent out stunning pieces in a limited, neutral color palette, some with more volume, some with a more streamlined silhouette, but all stunning.
Iris Van Herpen