Tag Archives: Haute Couture

Couture Fall 2012 Roundup, Day 2

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Christian Dior
Well, really now, what is there left to say? Everyone else in the Fashion World has pretty much covered it. I found it to be magnificent, truly splendid. The clothes could not be farther from Galliano’s version of Dior- there were no grand flower ball gowns, there were no over the top theatrics. But what there was was beautiful tailoring, silhouettes that looked back to Dior’s New Look, and the definite Raf Simmons presence. He is taking Dior in a whole new direction, but a modern and beautiful one.
LOVE the dye!
Giambattista Valli
Giambattista Valli may be the only person in existence who can mix red and green without conjuring up even the slightest notion of Christmastime. In his biggest and best foray into prints (read: florals) Valli excelled. His collection, inspired by fairies in dreamy woodlands was gorgeous, modern, and romantic, without being stuffy. A magical job indeed.
Chanel
I think the Chanel show was fine. I normally have and rave and rave and rave to anyone who will listen about Chanel Couture, Chanel Shoes, Chanel Bags, Karl and his cat, any Chanel thing, really. But I didn’t rave this time (about the couture. I still talk about the shoes, the nail polish, the tweed, etc.) I liked everything in the show, as I always do, but I wasn’t really blown away, and I also usually am. I did, however, love the fuchsia tweed suit, I am a sucker for Pink, any shade. I also loved the long, lean silhouette created by both drapey pants, long skirts, and longer jackets. I also liked the nubby knits, the soft color pallet, and the patch-work-like tweed. I could have done without some of the sequins, and definitely the silver tights. 
 

Couture Fall 2012 Roundup, Day 1

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As I have said before, I don’t do a lot of fashion-show-reviewing, but Couture time is my favorite time of the year, and I like to share it, so here we go. I only have a few favorites (or examples, in the case of Alexis Mabille), but to see more head on over to Style.com where al the photos are from anyways.

Versace
Versace is Versace, and while exciting, has never really been my style. There are pieces I love, but for the most part, I like my sequins and metallics a little more toned down (is that even possible? I think yes.) It was a Versace show, through and through, and the exorbitant amount of sequins and beading and embellishments that one usually sees at Couture week actually fits in at Versace. It doesn’t look too over the top, because it’s Versace, and isn’t Versace always a little over the top in some way?
Christophe Josse
Christophe Josse is getting stronger and stronger. His collection, a small one with a limited color palette, was nonetheless beautiful. Black separates, short and long dresses, with white, gray, and taupe pieces at the end made for a sophisticated and refined collection that was altogether simply lovely.
Photos via Vogue Italia
Alexis Mabille
It breaks my heart to tell you that Alexis Mabille’s show was struggling, to say the least, because I was really pulling for him for a while. After last season’s distracting headpoofs and lack of focus in silhouette and style (but not color, he did use every color in the rainbow, which is a cool scheme) and the seasons before that inconsistency in, again, silhouettes and style, I’m just not so sure about Mabille anymore. Which is sad, but true.
 I stubbled to find one piece I liked in his show, many were either too metallic/foil like (I’m not going for a mud wrap, thank you) too kimono-y, too cape-y, too sheer, too lace-and-velvety, too bow-y, had too many weird greek-like-curl-ouf-embellishments (I don’t want to look like one of the muses from Hercules, thank you), or too, did I get everything? I think I got it all. And let’s be clear, greek poufs and kimonos and lace and foil don’t really all go together.
I settles on the navy blue long sleeved sequin gown, because I do love my sequins, when done well. While this is a lot of sequins, it seems less like a sequined dress and more like a glorious, sparkling, midnight like gown. Though I don’t really want the bow. Or the hair.
Are we a present?
 Sorry, what?
Bouchra Jarrar

You know, I love couture. I love the glitz, the glm, the sequins and the beads. But I admire when a woman can do a couture show with smart, gorgeous separates, and not a beaded gown in sight. Bouchra Jarrar has done a magnificent job of taking couture and making it wearable, but just as lovely. Jarrar sent out stunning pieces in a limited, neutral color palette, some with more volume, some with a more streamlined silhouette, but all stunning.
Iris Van Herpen

Iris van Herpen’s fall couture was just like her spring couture: metallic, oddly shaped, and alien-esq. But in a sort-of cool way.

Couture Round Up, Day 3

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or, “The End”.



What can be said about this Red-Carpet-faveorite that hasn’t been said before? His dresses are beautiful, light, flowing, sparkly, and all together captivatingly gorgeous. His collection today showcased his ethereal dresses in a rainbow of pastel colors, with the occasional and somewhat odd floral print thrown in. It was refreshing to see a few shorter cocktail frocks among the longer gowns, though their lack of length made them no less dazzling than their longer counterparts. There were a few cape-y like things, and nearly each dress had a thin patent-leather-looking-belt-looking-thing which distracted from the rest of the dress a bit, but other than that, another job well done.





Gaultier’s most recent couture collection showcased suits draped in unusual and sort of falling apart ways, corsets, veils, colored wigs, models smoking cigarettes, lace, florals, neon, a sassy Karlie Kloss, and a lot of Amy Winehouse. And that being said, well, there’s not much more to say. The concept of hard-edged femininity was evident,  woven beautifully into Gaultier’s signature androgyny. Some of the best looks were the sportier ones (read: the red and white leather jacket resembling a letterman jacket, but less puffy and more chic). The designers tribute to Amy was done well, and how sweet that all the models came out in the end in veils. A Marvelous collection, even though it isn’t what one would typically think of when thinking of Haute Couture (the obvious thoughts drift into Elie Saab and Dior territory).





Prarie Chic is the first thing that comes to mind for the Valentino Couture collection. While this description may not conjure up the most glamourous images, Valentino did it in the most glamous way, infusing their feminine and youthful-yet-grown-up aesthetic with dulled prints of flowers and wildlife, printed on silks and chiffons instead of cottons. The romantic vibe was kept alive with longer dresses and lovely lace and fluid materials that floated down the runway with the utmost grace. Mainly white in color, it was a refreshing end to Couture Week and all the neons that have been going on, and proved to be another beautiful collection for Maria Grazia Chiui and Pier Paolo Piccoli. 


All photos via Style.com